Start: Mudgee, New South Wales, Australia
Total distance: 412 kilometres (256 miles)
Riding condition: Unsealed country roads, some gravel, sealed country roads and about 40 kilometres of highway shoulder.
CWC Website : link
If you're looking for a week long get away with your bike, some mates and have a thirst for pubs and salad rolls. The Central West Cycle provides. Rolling hills of yellow rapeseed fields, grain silos, disused train lines, abandoned petrol stations, solar power farms and more importantly the colourful locals.
Where you can buy mountains of crocheted tea towels, whiskey infused marmalade (yet to be sampled and vouched for), and lamingtons.
I have to admit that being vegan on adventures like this isn't easy. My saliva glands override my ethics at the sight of a fluffy lamington. I know it's just a sponge cake coated in chocolate and dusted with coconut. But just they go so well with a coffee in the morning.
Just follow the yellow CWC stickers and you're set for a week of country love.
Day 1 - Mudgee to Dunedoo via Gulgong
Distance: 86 kilometres
Accommodation: Camping at Dunedoo caravan park
After a night at the pub (the Courthouse pub) first port of call is the local bakery*. Followed by a last roll around town and obligatory group photo we roll out loaded up and fresh (except the 3 who rode in from Lithgow the previous night). Ok correction, I rolled out of Mudgee with fresh legs.
*Warning: some bakeries have a 'supreme' edition of a salad roll which usually means a pineapple. You have been warned. I wasn't.
If you thought Mudgee was a cute adorable country town, wait until you hit Gulgong (pronounced "gull" gong).
After loading up on more baked goods, cafe treats and barista coffee we hit the road to ride through pastures of grain silos, rapeseed fields and arrived in Dunedoo at a decent our for a pub feed.
Day 2 - Dunedoo to Ballimore via Mendooran
Distance: 110 kilometres
Accommodation: Hair of the Dog pub (camping and cute rooms available)
Some fun facts about Dunedoo.
Rolling up tents when it's still below 4 outside isn't ever fun, but we were all keen to roll out of camp not the least because the camping site was next the B-Double truck route but we were all keen for some baked goodies.
Hot tip #1: Chad's bakery in Dunedoo do a killer blueberry pie and salad rolls for take away.
By lunchtime we hit the Mendooran. When you roll through the main street please wave to the lovely ladies of the Craft shop who are often seen sitting outside their craft store. Do stop and check out their wares of cute tea towels, and knitted goodies. Some of us chose to eat at the pub. I decided to sit out at the picnic area trying to fix my punctured tube.
Hot tip #2: Be careful where you roll your bike, as the "cat eye thorns" can lead to punctures with a slow leak. Don't be like me who suffered 3 punctures because of these thorns this trip.
Hot tip #3: Check you brought the right sized spare tubes before you leave home or risk having to beg your riding mates for a spare.
Luckily I was riding with some generous people who were able to spare me a spare tube and we hit the road.
Hot tip #3: When in the state forest follow the yellow stickers. You don't want to be stuck in the state forest close to sunset with a broken derailleur and have to ride a single speed bike the last 40 kilometres into town. That's doing a Stewie.
Riding through the state forest at sunset was just delightful. We rolled into the Ballimore "Hair of the Dog" pub with a half moon shining down on us.
I think I can speak for the group when I say this pub and its owners were just super. No judgement when we started drying our socks over the fireplace. Also the only vegetarian burger at a pub on this trip.
Day 3 - Ballimore to Dubbo
Distance: 61 kilometres
Accommodation: Camping at Dubbo caravan park
After much flaffing about at the pub drying tents and clothes in the sun, and trying to find an appropriately nice angle for a group photo of the Ballimore sign (maybe next time install the town sign in front of the trees), we set out for our short roll to Dubbo. With a short roll ahead of us we were able to afford more frequent stops to say hi to some of the four legged locals.
Hot tip #1: Dubbo St vinnies closes at 4pm (we got to Dubbo at 3:50pm)
Hot tip #2: The Indian palace resto in Dubbo may just be the yummiest Indian restaurant in New South Wales.
Day 4 - Dubbo to Wellington
Distance: 78 kilometres
Accommodation: Camping at Wellington caves
Dinner: Wellington pub
Hot tip #1: If you wake up at the right time you might meet Kim in the kitchen in her bathrobe and words of wisdom. Kim is a retired mental health professional visiting her friend in Dubbo. Kim doesn't ride a bicycle but her husband does. Kim says in her mind she's always 29 but her body says otherwise. Kim might also tell you that she's not one of those mums who hassles her daughter to get married and have babies. We all need a bit of Kim advice in our lives.
Hot tip #2: Dubbo RSL has a fitness centre with a sauna that opens at 6:30am.
Hot tip #3: Dubbo is the kinda town when hot chips is served at all hours of the day. Pies are served with hot chips. No time limit. No judgement. So try to not be too surprised when you're half way through your breakfast pie and a plate of hot chips arrive at your table, try not to say "chips at 9 o'clock?".
Wellington once known as the South Pole for its ice addiction (report from 2015). Unfortunately it did not live up to its junkie reputation. It was quaint, clean and beautiful and full of great things.
Hot tip #4: Wellington cave (7 kilometres out of town) has camping grounds with amazing views of the milky way. Book the cave tour in advance, they get booked out.
Day 5 - Wellington to Gulgong
Distance: 88 kilometres
Accommodation: Camping at Gulgong caravan park
Food: Breakfast donuts and take away salad rolls for lunch from Sang's hot bread, Wellington.
Dinner: Gulgong pub
Day 6 - Gulgong to Mudgee
Distance: 30 kilometres
Food: Breakfast ice cream and takeaway salad rolls for lunch from the bakery
Day 1 - Outta Melbourne into Midnight
Day 2 - Into state forest territory
Day 3 - Ice Ice baby
Day 4 - To Base camp Mt Buller
Day 5 - Mt Stirling
Day 6 - New Year's ride outta Mt Stirling
Day 7 - To the Seymour train station
Distance: 23 kms
Elevation: 137 m
Scramble pedestrian crossings and plenty of time to cross and take photos and cross over again.
Bad ass trains, signs and warnings to let you know there's no chance to get beers or onigiri on the platform!
Wedding spotting success. Caught this cute couple on their photo shoot
Matsumoto is famous for its soba (buckwheat noodles). Eaten like professionals in the restaurant next to the temple with fresh wasabi (grated ourselves) and the crispiest tempura.
Then my favourite taiyaki (fishy red bean waffles).
After a blissful night stealth camping next to a shrine we carb loaded on more tofu and onigiri for our Norikura climb. Unfortunately the climb was not to be. Heavy fog and winds prevented us from climbing up.
Strava link: part 1 and part 2
Distance: 87 kms
Elevation: 3,591 m
Being told we couldn't climb Mount Norikura was tough. Especially when the alternative mean a main road with tunnels without cycling provision.
After a tough day of climbing, speeding through tunnels and never ending climbs, arriving at this gorgeous mountain hut with our own onsen was special.
Gero is famous for its natural hot springs so the tiny town is filled with onsens and people walking around all day in their post onsen yukatas.
End: Stealth camping outside Takayama
Distance: 74 kms
Elevation: 1,171 m
Helpful hint about public outdoor onsens. Make sure you check when the cleaning and emptying time is. Try to get to the onsen before they empty out the water and clean the facility.
And then they said it's impossible to climb Takayama.
We still managed to ride around the cute country side checking out the cute bus stops, wild flowers and rest stops with so much detail.
When riding through Japan in October you might be lucky to ride through fields of ripe persimmons (kaki). So despite having to reroute around Takayama at least I got my share of sweet golden persimmons.
After a day of rain, waking up to a steamy sunny day was the best. Followed by a closed mountain road for a car-free ride to the town famous for its onsens.
Distance: 93 kms
Elevation: 2,332 m
From a breakfast of tofu and bamboo shoots and banana to a feast of the most amazing agedashi tomato and agedashi tofu.
So much transport. Closed roads (that's what I think the sign said). Buses and cycling over cute bridges. Watching even cuter single carriage trains through the mountain valleys.
Survived the night of heavy rain and not thinking about being mauled to death by bears. Breakfast of stale donuts, bananas and red bean.
Start: Stealth camp
End: After what seemed like an endless road to the camp site we were met by the owner of the only camp site open in October about 1 km from the site. It was beautiful location near the river in a valley between the mountains.
Distance: 86 kms
Elevation: 2,402 m
Lunch: All the shops were closed in the morning, messing up our plans to have lunch at the shops. But we managed to find a corner store with some cup noodles which the shop keeper kindly let us eat after he boiled some hot water for us. Sat in the shop to dry off a bit from the rain and to figure. We loaded up with as much food as we could carry and were off again.
Thanks to broken closed roads we were able to ride car-free up the mountains. Sometime we had to walk along the cliff face but that was a tiny price to pay to have the car-free pass.
Start: Nagahama (train ride from Kyoto)
End: Stealth camped behind an empty house, after being rejected at a camping site which the staff said was closed.
Distance: 57 kms
Elevation: 1,989 m
Despite all the planning and ideating the weeks prior to the June long weekend the final route wasn't finalised till midnight before the ride. A few hiccups along the way included initially mapping out a route that potentially had no water refills, then accidentally creating a route through the restricted area around Lake Burragorang.
In the end it was decided 5:20am train to Lithgow and ride out to Mittagong.
Day 1 - Lithgow to Shooters Hill via Jenolan Cave
Distance: 66.87 km
Elevation: 1,568 m
Riding time: 4h 28m
Beautiful bits: the decent into Jenolan Caves, wedges at the cafe at Jenolan, camping in the state forest
Shitty bits: the freezing cold chill (the kind where you think your fingers and toes will snap off), big vehicles on the narrow roads, guns shots in the middle of the night (thankfully I didn't actually shit my pants but I was close).
Breakfast: avo bagels on the train
Morning tea: apple pie from the Lithgow cake shop, picked up more rolls for later
Lunch: Avo + tuna rolls, Avo + tofu rolls
Afternoon snack: Soy chai, coffee and chips at the Jenolan caves kiosk
Dinner: Lentil dhal and rice in one pot.
Day 2 - Shooters Hill to Wombeyan Caves through state forests
Distance: 74.93 km
Elevation: 1,189 m
Rolling time: 5h 8m
Ave speed: 14.6km/h
Beautiful bits: Morning sunrise in the state forest, lunch by the fire at Werong camp site, decent into Wombeyan Caves, 2 ice-creams at the kiosk
Shitty bits: coffee in oats (very, very bad), google navigating onto private roads, drones and dirt bikes on the camp site
Tips: If lost, look out for the Bicentennial trail signs
Breakfast: oats + nuts + coffee
Morning tea: Jules' muesli bars
Lunch: Avo + tuna wraps, Avo + tofu wraps
Afternoon snack: 2 ice creams each from the Wombeyan kiosk
Dinner: Coucous with sultanas, fried eggplant, felafel in tomato sauce
Day 3 - Wombeyan Caves to Mittagong via Wollindilly River
Distance: 65.77 km
Elevation: 1,049 m
Rolling time: 3h 57m
Beautiful bits: breakfast with the roos, slow gentle climbs, lunch at Wollondilly lookout
Shitty bits: freezing hands
Breakfast: oats + nuts, coffee (separately)
Morning tea: Jules' muesli bars, trail mix, dried avos
Lunch: Avo + tuna wraps, Avo + tofu wraps
Afternoon snack: beer from the Mittagong pub
1. Check the restricted areas / access with NSW Water
2. Check if hunting is allowed where you're camping, the Department of Primary Industries website
3. Check if google has mapped you onto a private road on six maps
Distance: 29 kms
Elevation: negative. downhill to Nowra
- The biggest epic vegan breakfast at Nowra (The deli on Kinghorne)